| CLASSROOM |
Let the gearheads read about their tag axles, inverters and drivelines. This one is devoted to something near and dear to our hearts. An appliance we haven’t had to live without since the early 1900s. The implement standing between an afternoon of leisure or fighting crowds and forking out massive amounts of quarters in the sweltering heat. Let’s discuss your coach’s washer/dryer combo.
Laundering clothes has evolved from scrubbing fabric on a rock down at the river, to guiding the wet cloth through rolling bars, into sleek machines standing at attention to bow to our commands. Doing the laundry is a daily process in most households, one in which we perform with no more thought than it takes to put one foot in front of another. Anyone savvy to the world of dirty clothes can walk into a laundry room anywhere in the country and immediately know the process of working the machines. That’s why the initial sight of the washer/dryer combo sitting behind those louvered doors is enough to make us weep with gratitude.
However, until you learn the proper procedures of that machine, you will end up with a lumpy mass of wrinkled wet fabrics regardless of how many years you’ve laundered. Even worse, treating the washer/dryer combo in your coach the way you treat your washer and dryer at home—or at the Laundromat—may break the machine. And you know what that means. Forced back into the trenches with campers rushing to clean their laundry, so they can return to their RVs and get busy creating more.
What distinguishes your coach’s washer/dryer combo from conventional systems is that both units are built into one. Since the appliance is smaller than a conventional household set, the loads must be streamlined to a size the machine can handle. Small loads are the key and small is defined as a set of sheets with the accompanying pillowcases, or a couple days’ worth of towels. Never wash more than four pairs of jeans at a time. Jamming the washer with large loads of clothes will take most of a day to dry, and the resulting wrinkled mess will undoubtedly need to be re-laundered. So, when you’re using the your washer/dryer combo, forget about stockpiling the laundry to do it all in one day. Wash clothes often and in small increments.
Many campgrounds now prohibit the use of powdered detergent, because the resulting suds may damage their waste water systems. Fabric sheets are bad for the washer/dryer combo, because they can disintegrate and clog the unit. To be on the safe side, you should only use liquid detergents and fabric softeners in your coach’s washer/dryer combo. A dispenser drawer at the top of the machine is divided and labeled for these additives. Sometimes a small amount of water remains in these dispensers after a load of laundry. Remove the residual water by adding a small amount more into the compartment, so the siphon can draw all of the liquid into the machine. This dispenser drawer should be occasionally cleaned to remove detergent build-up.
One of the most common mistakes is putting too much detergent into the machine. When too much soap is added, the washer will fill with suds and soap will end up running out of the exterior vent. Experiment with the amount of detergent needed. Less is better. If the door shows that the machine is more than half full of suds, add liquid fabric softener to the dispenser. This will kill the suds and allow proper operation of the washer. Failure to get rid of excess soap will prevent the laundry from rinsing properly and result in a load that will require re-rinsing.
Don’t hesitate to do the laundry while you drive down the road. The system will require about sixteen gallons of water, so it’s important to have availability in the fresh tank, and room to drain in the gray tank. Confirm that the rear water hoses—which are located behind the washer/dryer—are completely open to water flow. Run the generator and turn on the water pump switch. Use cold water for color washing to reduce fading of colors. If you desire to run a load with bleach and hot water, turn on the hot water heater prior to starting the load and turn the hot water heater off when the load is finished. Use bleach only during the soak or wash cycle and always dilute the bleach before using it in the machine. Bleach is good for whitening, but it dries out seals.
Beware of inadequate voltage or water situations when running the washer/dryer combo while hooked up to shore power and city water. Low voltage or power surges will put stress on the mechanical parts of the washer/dryer combo and may ultimately cause a need for repair. Low water supply will prevent the machine from being properly supplied.
When hooked up to city water in hard water areas, you may need to use water conditioners. When flushing a water conditioner through the system, run a complete cycle using hot water and two cups of the conditioner. Do not add clothes or detergents to this process.
Always remember that the unit has to be in a cabinet with louvered doors for proper airflow. Located behind the washer/dryer combo is a drain hose that should be frequently checked for kinks, clogs or looseness. A kinked or clogged drain hose will restrict the water from draining out of the washer. A loose drain hose can create water leaks if it vibrates up and out of the drain.
On the face of the appliance there are three dials for setting the water temperature, wash cycle and drying timer. In the center of the top panel are three buttons for on/off, half/high heat and medium/high spin. You have full control over your washing and drying cycles. Open the roof vent before you begin a load of laundry.
Once the wash cycle has started, the door is automatically locked. Never force the door open and risk breaking the handle or latch. If there is some reason why you have to open the door during the wash cycle, turn off the machine, set the cycle to spin, run the spin cycle and wait until all the water is gone. The machine won’t unlock for two minutes after the spin cycle is complete.
Prior to starting the washer, set the dryer timer for 100 minutes. This will preheat the drum on the washer’s final spin. After the dry cycle has started, and the door is unlocked, open the door and shake out the clothes. This is important. When you are satisfied that the clothes have dried, always use the final 12 minutes on the dryer timer for the cool down stage. This will help to ease the wrinkling of fabrics. More importantly, the cool-down stage will prevent residual heat build-up from tripping a fuse or thermostat.
In order for the washer to start, the door must be securely shut with the cycle selector and time knobs in the correct positions. If this procedure has been followed and the washer still does not start, the washer may not be plugged in, a connection may be loose, a fuse could be blown or a circuit breaker tripped.
Once the machine is running, check the level of suds and water. A front-loading-type washer uses less water than a machine that is top-loading. The water level should always be below the door opening. If you feel that the water level is too low, check the standpipe for the drain hose. The pipe should be twenty inches minimum, or thirty inches maximum.
Additional culprits of low water could include: the water supply being drawn from is inadequate, the faucets are not turned on completely, or perhaps water is being used elsewhere in the coach at the same time.
A certain amount of noise is to be expected while the machine is running. Rattles should be investigated. Coins or metal objects left in pockets and flying around the tub could damage the interior. Occasionally check the pump to keep it clear of foreign objects. If the machine is excessively vibrating, it may not be level. When leveling a machine, always check that the leveling legs have their rubber caps in place. Be sure the lock nuts are securely tightened whenever the machine is leveled.
The washer/dryer combo drain screen must be frequently cleaned just as we clean the lint screens in a standard household dryer. The amount of lint accumulated depends upon the type of laundry. For instance, cotton towels will create more lint than nylon articles. Checking the drain screen must be done when the washer is off. If the screen is pulled out with the washer on, water will get all over the place. Sometimes, even when the washer is off, some water is collected in the drain screen. For this reason, it is always a good idea to run the spin cycle of the washer while cleaning the drain screen.
The drain filter is situated in the lower-front area of the unit. Press on the left-hand side to open the door. Have a cloth or shallow tray handy in case a small amount of water runs out. Turn the drain screen counter-clockwise to remove and clean the screen. If the screen is noticeably clogged, it may be necessary to rinse under the water faucet. After cleaning, replace the screen and turn clockwise to secure. If you’re running the spin cycle, this has to be finished before that cycle is complete, so don’t get distracted.
From time to time, you should check the outside dryer vent to verify that there is adequate airflow. If not, the venting system should be inspected. Once a year the unit should be removed and the storage area thoroughly cleaned of lint and water stains that may have accrued. Get in the habit of checking for water leaks around the machine with every load.
The rubber seal around the door may stick over time due to detergent build-up. Occasionally clean the rubber with alcohol to remove the build-up, then lubricate the rubber with an Armor-All®, or a similar product. Clean dust off the drum by wiping with a cloth. Periodically apply a thin coat of paste wax to the inner door to protect the finish from discoloration. Build-up on the door will prevent a tight seal and may create water leaks.
After washing is complete, the water faucets should be turned off to relieve water pressure on the hoses. During winter storage, the system should be properly winterized to protect against the freezing elements.
Water leaks must be corrected as soon as they are discovered. Loose connections can cause water leaks. Make sure all hoses and pipes are securely fastened and clear of clogs. Confirm that the hot and cold water hoses are connected to the proper faucets.
Despite your best intentions, some items will still end up wrinkled, so be wise to include an iron when packing the coach. You can use the dinette table for an ironing board as long as you’re careful to heavily pad the surface to prevent burn stains.
Operating the washer/dryer combo begins with trial and error, but the benefits will make all your experimentation worthwhile. Be patient. Launder small loads and check the machine frequently. If some towels are damp, but the smaller items are dry, finish the damp towels by hang-drying. Sometimes it might be necessary to re-shake wet clothes during the drying process. The key is good airflow inside and outside of the unit.
Laundry duty is a drag any time, even more so when you’re enjoying the adventures of a vacation. Use your RV washer/dryer combo, enjoy the benefits of having freshly laundered items from the comfort of your own coach and go have some fun.