BY JIM BLEYER

The Black Hills. Deadwood. The Badlands. Wounded Knee. Names that are historic, but that also trigger an uneasy foreboding if not downright apprehension. All are associated with South Dakota, a state not usually in the forefront of headlines or the public consciousness. Yet, the "Coyote State" is steeped in history, its past intertwined with the struggle between Native and the pioneers who attempted to settle in an untamed frontier.

It’s a state that Tom Brokaw, Cheryl Ladd, and Mary Hart call home. Famous Native Americans associated with South Dakota include Crazy Horse, Red Cloud, Rain-in-the-Face, and Sitting Bull. The state’s motto, "Under God the people rule", fits South Dakotans to a T. It reflects their Midwestern values and fierce independence.

Despite its sparse population, frigid winters, and lack of glitz, South Dakota is getting rediscovered. As more and more people visit some of the most historic and picturesque sites on the continent, tourism has boomed. Surprisingly, that industry generates approximately $1.25 billion worth of economic activity annually. Long known as aneconomic and cultural mainstay, agriculture takes a back seat to durable goodsmanufacturing andprivate services and the economy’s wheelhorse.

The first European discovery of the Dakota Territory occurred in 1743 when French explorers came through in search of a route to the Pacific. The fledgling United States acquired the region in 1803 as part of the Louisiana Purchase and the next year, the Lewis and Clark Expedition made one of two trips through the territory. Fur traders settled the area over the next several years.

The first report of a skirmish between Native Americans and settlers occurred in 1823 when Arikara Indians attacked a fur trading party. It was the beginning of an unfortunate unfolding of more than a half century of hostilities between settlers and natives. Treaties were signed but didn’t prevent wars with the Santee and Sioux.

Dakota attained territorial status in the waning days of the James Buchanan administration. It didn’t hurt that J.B. S. Todd, a leading promoter for Dakota was the brother-in-law of incoming president Abraham Lincoln. The territory included the present states of South Dakota, North Dakota, Montana, and most of Wyoming.

In 1874, rumors of "there’s gold in them thar’ hills" resulted in several expeditions of scientists and miners. Lt. Gen. George Custer led one of them that preceded the Black Hills gold rush. South Dakota is still the nation’s second leading producer of gold; the Homestake Mine is the country’s richest.

Thousands of miners converged on deadwood Gulch and other areas nearby. Tales of gambling and violence may have been exaggerated but it was in Deadwood that gunfighter Wild Bill Hickock was shot to death playing poker in a saloon. He is buried in Deadwood’s Moriah Cemetery next to his purported lover, Calamity Jane.

The influx of treasure hunters to the Black Hills irritated the Sioux who viewed the intrusion as an abrogation of previous treaties. The Sioux war, which spread beyond the territory, brought about the defeat of Custer and the Seventh Cavalry at Little Big Horn.

By 1883, The Dakota Territory shrunk to what is now North and South Dakota because Wyoming and Montana were organized into separate territories. When population shifts made Bismarck the territorial capitol instead of Yankton, residents of southern Dakota petitioned to become admitted to the Union as a separate state. After years of wrangling, Grover Cleveland signed legislation granting statehood to South Dakota, North Dakota, Montana, and Washington. The Dakota Territory ceased to exist geographically but the four states share a colorful, bloody past.

A drought in the late 1880s sparked the Great Dakota Bust. Many residents resettled back to the states of their origin and the economy slowed to a standstill. The depressed economy led to near starvation for the Sioux. The tribe performed a "Ghost Dance," so called because they believed it would bring back the dead buffalo—a great food source—and eliminate the whites—a great source of consternation. When residents became frightened and demanded protection, the Army moved in. Several skirmished culminated in the infamous Wounded Knee Massacre where several hundred Native American men, women, and children were killed. It was the final conquest of the Sioux.

South Dakota’s storied history has been preserved at many tourist attractions. The Black Hills region has parks, forests, and memorials that encompass some of the country’s most dazzling landscapes. In addition, the state parks system includes glacial lakes, historic forts, and sprawling stretches of riverfront.

One of the most famous attractions is Custer State Park in the Black Hills. Encompassing 73,000 acres of spectacular terrain and wildlife, the park offers scenic drives such as the Needles Highway which serpentines past towering rock formations and through narrow tunnels. At the end of one tunnel stands Needles Eye, a granite spire with a lit only 3 to 4 feet wide and reaching 40 feet in the air. Custer also has outdoor activities such as mountain biking, horseback riding, rock climbing, fishing, chuckwagon suppers, and jeep rides to observe bison herds. The more ambitious visitors hike the 7,242-foot Harney Peak.

The banks of French Creek are a picturesque walk for visitors who want to see where Custer’s expedition first discovered gold. The telephone number for park headquarters is (605)255-4514. Camping reservations can be made at 1-800-710-CAMP and resort reservations can be made at 1-800-658-3530.

The Black Hills are the highest mountains east of the Rockies. The famous Mt. Rushmore, with likenesses of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt, looms majestically over the area. A memorial to Crazy Horse is also carved in granite near Custer.

The city of Deadwood, scene of the gold rush and where Hickock was killed, enjoys an excellent reputation as a tourist destination. The recent legalization of gambling there adds spice to the town’s obvious historic flavor.

Five tribes of the Sioux nation still call South Dakota home and have lands or reservations along the Missouri River. A sampling of their culture might include a powwow with traditional music and dancing, a museum, or an observation of buffalo. For information about tribal torusim opportunities you can call the Yankton Sioux Tribe, 605/384-3641; Crow Creek Sioux Tribe, 605/ 245-2327; Lower Brule Sioux Tribe, 605/473-5399; Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe, 605/964-4155; and the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, 701/854-7226.

You should know that the endangered buffalo are making a comeback in south Dakota. You can view them at the Lower Brule and Crow Creek reservations or at the Triple U Buffalo Ranch (where scenes were filmed for Dances with Wolves) near Fort Pierre. To find about Triple U tours, call 605/567-3624.

South Dakota, its rural makeup of only about three-quarters of a million residents, has carved an important place in American history. The state’s "second discovery" by visitors has produced a booming tourism economy as well as a cultural awakening.

Jim Blyer has seven years experience as a journalist with the Orlando Sentinal and Tampa Tribune newspapers. He is working currently as a freelance writer based in Tampa, FL.