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> holiday rambler home March/April 2006
 
Road Toads

What you need to know about towed vehicles and towing equipment.

Words by Lazelle Jones
Photos provided by Blue Ox & Roadmaster

For many RVers, towing a smaller vehicle to run arund in at each destination makes a lot of sense and adds one more dimension of pleasure and utility to the motorhome lifestyle. However, the decision to tow a vehicle with a motorhome involves understanding a body of information that can help you choose the vehicle to tow and the tow equipment that is right for you.

What follows are basic terms, concepts and accumulated wisdom that are specific to this discipline. This article is intended as a starting point to get you headed in the right direction. For advanced technical assistance, please consult a reputable tow equipment manufacturer, such as Blue Ox or Roadmaster. Each have a long pedigree and excellent reputation in providing outstanding towing products and service.

Towing Laws

All states and provinces in North America have them, laws and regulations that govern towing. They can and do differ from venue to venue, so it’s important to check the laws in the area(s) where you will be towing. Towing laws regulate such things as the maximum amount of weight that can be towed; maximum towing speed; when supplemental brake systems are required and other types of safety equipment that can be mandated. Much of this information is available on the Internet. For a list of pertinent web sites type the words ‘towing laws” in the search function and click “GO.”

Towing Terms

Flat Towing – All wheels of the vehicle being towed are on the ground and rolling. A tow bar is used to couple the towed vehicle to the motorhome baseplate, along with federally mandated safety chains/cable and lighting (activated from the motorhome) to operate the brake and turn signals on the back of the towed vehicle.

Tow Dolly – The front wheels of the vehicle being towed are attached to this single axle (two-wheel) platform. The rear wheels stay on the ground. A dolly includes its own electrical lights (brake lights, turn signals, tail lights) that are activated when the lights on the motorhome are activated. They include one of two different kinds of brake systems that are built into the dolly. It can be a surge brake that is activated by the inertia of the dolly pushing against the motorhome receiver hitch when the motorhome slows or stops, or an electrical brake system that is activated from a brake controller when the brakes are applied in the motorhome.

Trailer Towing – All the wheels of the toad are off the ground, on the bed of a trailer that is towed by the motorhome.

Many (But not all) Vehicles can be Flat-Towed

Several vehicles (regardless of whether or not the transmission is automatic or manual) can be flat-towed without any modifications to the toad’s drive train. Others require that specific actions be taken, for example, starting the engine on the vehicle being towed every so many miles so the transmission fluid gets circulated. Some have limits on the speed at which they can be towed. Some vehicles can be flat-towed if they have an automatic transmission, but not if they are equipped with a manual transmission, and visa versa. Others may require an aftermarket transmission lubrication system to keep the transmission fluid circulating. There are also aftermarket mechanical devices that can be installed that uncouple the drive shaft when a vehicle is being flat-towed. Check with the vehicle (toad) manufacturer to fully understand what your specific vehicle requires.

Towing Equipment

Tow bar – A mechanical device that couples the motorhome to the toad. Some tow bar manufacturers use classes to categorize the capability of their tow bars (II is for 2,500 lbs. or less; III is for 5,000 lb. or less; IV 10,000 lb. or less). Other manufacturers rate their tow bars as the weight they can tow in thousands of pounds – 5,000, 6,0000, 8,000 or 10,0000 pounds, etc. In any case the tow bar selected must be rated above the weight of the towed vehicle and all its contents (not to exceed the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of the vehicle being towed). There are tow bars that can be mounted and stowed on the toad, while others are designed to be stowed on the motorhome. Others need are completely removed when not in use.

When installed the tow bar needs to be level (horizontal) with the ground. A drop hitch may be required to achieve this. Some tow bars telescope and some are self-aligning for ease of hitching. Some employ a ball coupler, while others feature a draw bar or ‘stinger’ that is inserted into the hitch receiver on the motorhome.

Base-plates/mounting brackets – Are attached to the chassis of the vehicle being towed and provide the points where the tow bar attaches to the vehicle. Mounting brackets/base-plates can be hidden (out of sight) so they aren’t visible when the tow bar is not in use. Others are visible. There are base-plates/mounting brackets for just about every make and model of vehicle (passenger car, truck, SUV). However, they are not universal nor are they generically mounted. They are matched specifically to a make/model of vehicle and have unique mounting requirements for each make/model of vehicle.

Adaptors – Devices that permit a tow bar built by one manufacturer to use the base plates fabricated by another manufacturer.

Safety chains/cables – These devices keep the motorhome and toad together should they become unhitched during travel. They are rated for specific weights. When installed for travel, they need to be crossed (in an X pattern) directly below where the tow bar is coupled to the hitch on the motorhome. This provides a potential cradle to hold the tow bar up off the road, should it inadvertently become unhitched from the motorhome while in transit.

Supplemental brake systems – Applies the brakes on the toad when the brakes on the motorhome are applied. There are different types: air, hydraulic, inertia, electronic and mechanically operated.

Brake away protection – Stops the toad should it inadvertently become uncoupled from the motorhome during transit.

Lights

• Add-on lights (brake lights, tail lights and turn signals) – These are attached by magnets or suction cups to the toad when it is being towed. They’re removed and stowed when the toad is being used for transportation. The 12-volt power to operate the lights is provided by a harness that is connected to the multi-pin connector near the hitch on the motorhome.

• Bulb and socket kits – A permanent but independent light bulb that is installed in the toad’s tail light assembly. It is powered from a harness that is plugged into the multi-pin electrical connector on the motorhome.

• Existing tail lights – This requires splicing into the electrical harness on the toad and requires a diode to prevent 12-volt DC from going where it not wanted. It is powered from a harness that is plugged into the multi-pin electrical connector on the motorhome.

• Auxiliary equipment – There are protective shields that prevent road debris or the motorhome from inflicting damage to the tow bar and the vehicle.

Use a Hitching Checklist

Create a towing safety checklist that incorporates all of the steps and procedures that need to be taken and that are specific to preparing your motorhome, vehicle and towing equipment. Use it each and every time you hitch your toad to your motorhome. Examples of items that need to be on your checklist include but are not limited to:

1) Verify stop/turn signals/tail lights on the toad work when equivalent function on the motorhome is actuated

2) Install supplemental brake

3) Ensure toad ignition switch is in proper location to unlock front wheels and to provide 12-volt power to supplemental brake (if required)

4) Verify locking pins and safety chains/cables are properly installed

5) Verify auxiliary equipment if properly installed

Towing Do's and Don'ts

1) Check with the motorhome manufacturer regarding the amount of weight the chassis on your motorhome can tow. Verify with the motorhome manufacturer and the State laws the amount of weight you can tow before a supplemental brake system is required.

2) Once hitching is complete, don’t back up. This puts undue stress on the tow bar and the mounting brackets/base-plates.

3) Avoid tight turns while towing. It places undue stress on the tow bar. Keep this in mind when selecting a campsite in a campground

4) Periodically stop during transit to verify your towing system is working correctly. Do not depend upon your backup monitor.

Gallery
This Blue Ox shield protects the tow bar and toad from road debris.

» View Photo Gallery

INFORMATION

On the Web

Blue Ox
www.blueox.us


Roadmaster Inc.
www.roadmasterinc.com