If you long for a hiatus from hustle ‘n’ bustle, traffic, and crowds, it doesn’t get much better than the “Loneliest Road in America.” On the stretch of Highway 50 that spans the serene-desert-and-vaulting-mountain landscape of Utah and Nevada, one is likely to see more cows than people and more snowcapped peaks than vehicles.

Still, there is much to see and do along this incredible stretch of road—from hitting the casinos and riding the Ghost Train in Ely, Nevada to hiking in Great Basin National Park. Other hidden treasures include Basque restaurants, secluded hot springs, gem shops, and Old West towns. Despite Highway 50’s desolate nature, it is a popular RV destination and there are also several RV parks along the way.

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Nevada’s Highway 50 moniker—dubbed by LIFE in the ’80s. The magazine described the stretch of road from Ely to Fernley, Nevada as the “Loneliest Road in America.” At the time, LIFE said there were no attractions or points of interest along the 287-mile stretch of road and recommended that drivers have “survival skills” to travel the route.

Apparently, the magazine enlisted the help of a AAA rep in their search for the “Loneliest Road.” He suggested Highway 50, saying “We warn all motorists not to drive there unless they’re confident in their survival skills.” And the rest is history. Except for the fact that Nevadans knew better. Taking the opportunity to turn this lemon into a tasty beverage, a statewide campaign was launched in the form of a Highway 50 Survival Kit (still available today at retailers along the way), which includes brochures and information on points of interest. The Kit also provides visitors who get stamped in towns along the way an opportunity to send in for an “I Survived Highway 50” certificate.

Today, two decades after the LIFE moniker was bestowed, there are many more services and attractions here. “The Loneliest Road” has actually become a true destination for adventurous travelers. Certainly, gas stops must be carefully planned and a few extra supplies, such as bottles of water and snacks, can make this trip more comfortable.

In the Beginning

To access the best of Highway 50, travelers can start their journey at either the Utah end in Delta (about 160 miles south of Salt Lake City) or the Nevada end in Fallon (about 60 miles southeast of Reno). Both routes can be made into a loop by linking into Interstate 80.

Starting in Delta, Highway 50 rolls straight through the expansive high desert with stunning views of the Severe Dry Lake Bed and surrounding mountains. The beauty continues into Nevada—drop your first quarters in the slots at The Border Inn (about 85 miles from Delta).

Just west of the border (where the Pacific Time Zone kicks in) is the entrance to Great Basin National Park. Best visited in prime summer months when hiking and camping conditions are optimal, this park’s best feature is Lehman Caves, a limestone solution cavern. Its beginnings can be traced back to 600 million years ago when most of Nevada and western Utah was covered by a warm, shallow sea.

A variety of cave tours (from 30 to 90 minutes) are offered at Great Basin (www.nps.gov/grba/home.htm). Ranger-guided hikes are also available to the ancient bristlecone grove in the Wheeler Peak (Nevada’s highest peak entirely within the state), where some trees are over 4,000 years old. This park is a true find because it boasts the grandeur of the more popular parks without the crowds.

Old West Charms

About 45 minutes east of Great Basin is the town of Ely, a historic copper mining town. It is also home to the Hotel Nevada (once Nevada’s tallest building) and the Ghost Train—an operating tourist railroad with diesel and steam excursions. This is the last short line railroad to operate in Nevada. It is also the best-preserved in North America.

The train station here doubles as a museum—it encompasses a 56-acre National Historic site and contains steam, electric, and diesel locomotives, antique passenger and freight cars, 49 buildings, plus 30 miles of railroad track. Tickets to ride are sold here or check out www.nnry.com for more information.

A trip to Ely is not complete without a visit to the Hotel Nevada, where history and gaming peacefully coexist. Built in 1929, the casino/hotel has comfortable, charming rooms complete with vintage plumbing. A sign in the bathroom that says, “I survived the shower in the Hotel Nevada,” warns guests of frequent water temperature fluctuations.

The casino is small but entertaining. There is also the requisite diner with a 99-cent breakfast and the bar with 99-cent margaritas. Other culinary points of interest are limited in this town, but Mr. G’s Italian restaurant and lounge has recently opened across the street. Live music and locals can be found at the Twisted Pine Bar (one block west of the Hotel Nevada).

About 77 miles west of Ely is Eureka, perhaps the best-preserved example of a 19th century mining town in the state. Here, in this tiny town, there are beautifully restored buildings and authentic frontier cemeteries. In addition, The Eureka Owl Club is a good dinner spot—the double-cut lamb chops are excellent and the wine list is astonishingly good. This is no surprise as proprietor Ron Carrion combines his love for the outdoors with an expert knowledge of fine wines (www.eurekaowlclub.com).

Outdoor Adventure

Just when your muscles start to ache from driving, along comes the natural hot springs stop. About 14 miles east of Austin sits a relaxing oasis. This cluster of natural springs has been enhanced (likely by locals) with small decks and temperature controls. All visitors have to do is find them, check the temperature, and slip right in. Relaxation—and spectacular vistas—and yours for the taking.

To get there heading west from Eureka, turn right on Highway 376, and then take an immediate left on the first dirt road. After 5.5 miles, make a left on the dirt road by the gravel pit. As that road curves around to your right (to almost parallel the main dirt road you were on), you will be looking right at the hot springs. There are several pools, including a rock-lined pool at the top of the hill. Visitors can help keep this pristine spot spotless by “Leaving No Trace.”

Up over the winding mountain pass into Austin, visitors will find Austin, another former mining town, which is now dotted with gem and turquoise shops. The International Hotel is a great lunch or dinner stop—the green chili Swiss burger is quite good. The hotel (no longer in operation) was originally brought over piece by piece from Virginia City, Nevada. After dining, saunter over to the International’s bar for a cocktail and to check out the array of dollar bills taped to the walls—each has the hometown of the original owner written on it. The antique bar here was actually shipped from England.

It is easy to hit the trails in Austin for a hike or mountain bike ride as many trails are quickly accessed from town. Check in with one of the local sporting goods shops for information.

Just down the road from Austin (75 miles west) sits one of the more humorous attractions of the trip. Highway 50’s infamous “Shoe Tree” (one of many across the country, www.roadsideamerica.com/set/shoetrees.html) is hard to miss on the right side of the road—it is filled with hundreds of pairs of shoes slung up by their laces—from high-top sneakers and work boots to high-heeled pumps. Toss a pair up if you wish to leave your mark on the “Loneliest Road.” There is ample parking for RVs here.

In the End

Those in need of a pit stop will find the low-key grill at Middlegate Station, which has everything from eggs to hamburgers, a welcome find in the desert. Another surprising plus at this spot, which was one of the original stops on the Pony Express (see sidebar), is that this bar/restaurant/hotel also offers free RV parking and free camping.

For a real desert treat, head on west to Sand Mountain recreation area, home to a several-hundred-foot-high natural sand dune. This is a favorite spot for ATVers, dirt bikers, and sandboarders who like to challenge themselves climbing the ever-changing swells of this “mountain.” There is fee camping here and the entrance to the area boasts the “Loneliest Phone,” a retro-looking solar-powered phone booth with working service (no coins accepted; only 911 and credit card calls).

A short drive west will put you smack dab back in the middle of civilization—or so it will seem even in the small city of Fallon, Nevada after a few days on Highway 50. There are plenty of services here—from hotels and restaurants to coffee shops and gas stations. This town is also home to the Fallon Naval Air Station (www.fallon.navy.mil).

Adjusting back to reality may be a bit difficult after a journey down “The Loneliest Road.” It is truly a historic trip through time that will transport you to an intriguing place that will, after all, seem anything but lonely.

A former New York City resident, Erinn Morgan was previously the editor-in-chief of SoHo Style. She is currently a freelance writer and editor living and traveling in her Monaco Coach Corporation motorhome.